Antibiotic Injection details and short-term dips/baths.
(Please note, this information is for the more experienced Koi enthusiast and I recommend that the injections detailed are only undertaken by those who are experienced in this field. Injections should only be administered after the Koi to be injected has been completely anaesthetised beforehand. Once the correct techniques have become mastered it becomes very easy to do this yourself afterwards. )
INTRODUCTION
On rare occasions we may have to administer antibiotic injection/s to a particular Koi suffering from a bacterial infection (damaged fins, lesions and ulcerations) in order to hasten healing and recovery. The choice of actual antibiotics we can use are quite extensive and I list below details of the more popular ones that are used in the treatment of Nishikigoi today.
Antibiotics for animal use are strictly regulated by the UK Veterinary authority and usually have to be purchased from a Veterinarian although, in recent years, they can be found to be available freely on the Internet.
It is very important to note however, that the actual choice of antibiotic used is correct for the treatment of the Koi in question as incorrect choices of antibiotic are little more than useless in effecting a perfect cure.
The only real and accurate way to select the correct antibiotic is to carefully take a ‘swab’ of the actual wound by cotton bud and take it, or send it to a specialist animal laboratory for analysis after first placing it in the appropriate container prior to despatch. This process takes time at the laboratory as the technicians have to produce cultures from the swab before they can determine which antibiotic/s will be successful (gram positive) in effecting a cure.
In many instances the infection can rapidly deteriorate before laboratory results are completed and returned which makes a cure more difficult or ‘too late’ to effect. Perhaps a suitable topical treatment applied to the wound will reduce further infection to the area whilst waiting for the final laboratory report. I would always recommend that a suitable all-round ‘topical dressing’ is used to apply directly to bacterial or physical damages before, during and after injections have been carried out. A product made in the UK known as ‘IO-SAL’ is recommended here.
However, I have witnessed many correct usage of antibiotic treatments, given at specified intervals, cure many serious bacterial damages with total and complete success over the many years I have been involved in this part of the hobby.
The reader will also note that details I have given below relate to the general size (in length) of the Koi and, as you know, this is not an exact rule of thumb as the actual weight is far more exact. Female Koi invariably weigh more than male Koi and some Koi can be fat whilst others are thin. With this in mind each Koi to be injected should be mentally assessed beforehand and the actual injection dosage increased or decreased accordingly.
ANTIBIOTICS.
a. ‘BAYTRIL’
This is broad-spectrum product widely used by veterinarians on many forms of animals ranging from reptiles, birds, dogs, cats, horses and farm animals. It has also been used very successfully on Koi. This injectible liquid is supplied in varying strengths but I recommend that the 10% form is used for treatment of Nishikigoi.
From experience, a course of Baytril 10% injections should be carried out by three separate injections each three days apart. Dosage rates are as follows:-
-
SIZE OF KOI (in inches)
8” to 9”
10”
14”
18”
22”
26”
30”
34”
-
DOSAGE AMOUNT (millilitres)
0.1ml.
0.3ml.
0.6ml.
0.9ml.
1.0ml.
1.25ml.
1.75ml.
2.00ml.
b. ‘AZACTAM’
Preparation details – Inject 5ml. sterile saline water (0.9%) ito the 500mg. vial of Azactam which gives a strength of 100mg. per millilitre. Once the solution has been prepared it must be kept cool and used in full within 14 days – after this it should be discarded.
Again, from experience, three separate injections should be carried out by three separate injections each three days apart. Dosage rates are as follows:-
-
SIZE OF KOI (in inches)
4” to 6”
6” to 9”
10” to 13”
14” to 17”
18” to 21”
22” to 26”
Over 26”
-
DOSAGE AMOUNT (millilitres)
0.1ml.
0.2ml.
0.4ml.
0.6ml.
0.8ml.
1.0ml.
1.5ml. maximim dose.
c. ‘AMIKACIN’
Store the 100mg. strength bottle at room temperature, which has a shelf-life of one year. This is generally a ‘one-off single’ injection although three injections over three days have not been proven to be harmful. Dosage rates as follows:-
-
SIZE OF KOI (in inches)
6”
10”
14”
18”
22”
26”
30”
34”
-
DOSAGE AMOUNT (millilitres)
0.1ml.
0.3ml.
0.5ml.
0.7ml.
1.0ml.
1.15ml.
2.0ml.
3.0ml.
Note:- If using Amikacin at 500mg. strength only use one fifth of the above injection dosages and this is why I recommend to use the 100mg. preparation so dosages can be measured more accurately.
d. ‘GENTAMYCIN’
This antibiotic, also produced for human treatment, was one of the first I used back in the 1970’s together with Chloramphenicol and Neomycin Sulphate.
Gentamycin has stood the test of time since then and is still used widely today in the treatment of Nishikigoi.
I recommend that the 80mg. to 2ml. vials are purchased and not the paediatric preparation which is 80% weaker and involves almost impossible accuracy when attempting to measure the exact amounts required.
Use three separate injections, each three days apart.
Preparation – Break the top of the vial and add 2.0ml. of distilled water to the powder and then shake to dissolve. Dosage rates as follows:-
-
SIZE OF KOI (in inches)
8” to 9”
9” to 10”
10” to 11”
12”
13”
14” to 15”
16” to 18”
19” to 20”
21” to 24”
26”
28”
-
DOSAGE AMOUNT (millilitres)
0.05ml.
0.06ml.
0.1ml.
0.15ml.
0.25ml.
0.3ml.
0.6ml.
0.8ml.
1.2ml.
2.0ml.
3.0ml.
Finally, on the subject of antibiotics that can be used on Nishikigoi.
There is not one single antibiotic in the world which is made specifically for either Nishikigoi or any ‘cyprinus carpio’ species.
The antibiotics detailed above have, however, been widely used for Nishikigoi treatment for many years and the specified dosage rates have been learned by experience rather than by any accurate and scientific medical instructions.
SHORT TERM BATHS AND ‘DIPS’
a. COOKING SALT
This can be used as a short-term bath to repair minor gill congestion and also if a Koi looks a little ‘unhappy’ whilst no external signs are visibly apparent. Do ensure that the salt is totally dissolved before commencing the bath.
220 grams (8 ounces) per one UK gallon for 30 seconds.
OR
80 grams (3 ounces) per one UK gallon for 3 to 4 minutes – this can be extended to 10 minutes duration with heavy aeration in the case of severe gill congestion. During this time, if the Koi turns on its side, remove from bath and return to fresh pond water.
OR
1 kilo per 11 UK gallons for up to 13 minutes. (This is my own choice).
b. POTASSIUM PERMANGANATE POWDER
One gram per litre water for 30 seconds.
OR
One gram to five litres water for three minutes.
OR
1.25grams to five litres water for 2 minutes and 30 seconds.
OR
10 grams per 220 UK gallons of water for 90 minutes together with good aeration. This is particularly effective in eradicating stubborn infestations of Costia and/or Trichodina.
c. ‘CHLORAMINE T’
This is a form of ‘aquatic bleach’ which is sometimes effective as a pond disinfectant.
For a short-term bath use one gram per three UK gallons for three minutes.
OR
To medicate a pond with a high bacterial count – a ‘dip-slide’ is useful here, use 150 grams per 1,000 UK gallons once daily for three applications.
d. ‘ELBAGIN’ (sp)
Elbagin can be used together with cooking salt at five kilos per 220 UK gallons to protect and repair damages after correct antibiotic injections have first been carried out.
50 to 100 grams Elbagin per 220 UK gallons pond water for four hours duration.
OR
10 to 20 grams Elbagin per 220 UK gallons pond water for 24 hours duration.
INVASIVE SURGERY on KOI
A word on these matters, in view of the real fact that thousands upon thousands of Koi have passed through my hands over the years, I have experienced the following symptoms below on the approximate number of times.
-
a. Infectious dropsy (pinecone disease) – 30 occasions.?
-
b. Swim bladder problems – 20 occasions.
-
c. Egg compaction/decay in females – 25 occasions.
d. Koi taking in air at pond surface and expelling it when swimming back down – 200 occasions, with no sinister results – certainly not swim bladder problems.
-
e. One side only of a Koi becomes distended – 3 occasions.
-
f. Reports of unsuitable ‘blood make-up’ and possible internal damage caused – one occasion.
With the exception of d. – all these symptoms really require invasive surgery in order to effect a cure. This should really be carried out by those with veterinary qualifications specifically relating to fish anatomy as opposed to an expert fishmonger. Yes, there are wonderful diagrams available of the perfect positions and properties of all the internal organs of a carp to study in advance but this disappears to insignificance when the scalpel reveals the actual truth together with the blood, tissue and other fluids beneath.
As mentioned in an earlier page I have only once come across such individuals and these are based in Yamakoshi. They are also surrounded with a mass of potential customers – namely the Koi breeders themselves and they can work wonders, as I have witnessed on several occasions. Regretfully they may just as well be on a different planet if overseas Koi enthusiasts require their expertise.
In recent years, I have come across several statements, mostly from the USA, where it is said that ‘extensive research’ is being carried out into effecting cures for dropsy; swim bladder problems and egg compaction in Koi. In view of the fact that FAR more Koi have passed through my hands than theirs over the past 30 years and also in view of the tiny number of occasions I have witnessed these symptoms during that period, I then wonder exactly where they get the number of ‘patients’ required to be able to carry out this ‘extensive research’ upon? It is then that I wonder as to who is funding all of this and where their vital, experienced (and expensive) fish veterinarians come from? It is then that I wonder if there is any profit to be made and then what use is it to Koi enthusiasts in other lands?
Please believe me, after many years of these rare events occurring in my Koi career, we are all completely alone here. Yes, we could, after significant time and money has been spent, get an x-ray produced of our sick Koi, but is there anyone on hand able to tell us if it’s good news or otherwise? If we need to release trapped air in order to allow a deflated swim bladder to re-inflate we must make an incision – exactly where on the Koi’s body the trapped air is located is another matter altogether. If we open up the body of a female Koi with compacted eggs or egg decay and release the unwanted eggs by hand or remove the putrid brown liquid by other means, what happens next when we discover that the problem has produced internal bacterial problems to the surrounding organs? The very same question arises when internally inspecting a Koi with pinecone disease or ‘dropsy’ (another word for ‘poorly’). As to accurately diagnosing ‘blood disorders’? – I’ll leave that to the reader.
Whilst there are individuals all over the world who could become true experts in these matters and attain the necessary qualifications to do so, just who is there to pay their salaries at the end of it all? If a fish farmer finds one of his brood stock with a problem, he’ll dispose of it and select from a dozen or more others rather than pay for expert advice and a ‘cure’ that may never be possible. If we take this to Koi keeping, in view of the rare times these matters happen, the keeper has to decide if the expense and risk of failure can be accepted.
However, all is not completely lost because where there’s life there’s hope. In all of the cases I have witnessed and been called to attend, I have always made an attempt to effect a cure but without the use of invasive surgery if it can be avoided. My failure rate is around 85% but 15% made a total recovery and the problem never recurred in later years. Yes, it was all ‘belt and braces’ plus a crossing of fingers but some came through, I am also very sure that, had these attempts not have been made, the Koi in question would have been lost.
As to how they were carried out, rare swim bladder problems came to be cured by the old remedy of placing the Koi in very shallow water with ample aeration. The reduction of water pressure on the Koi’s body simply allowed the bladder to re-inflate to normal. For dropsy and compacted/decaying eggs I used a wide spectrum antibiotic injection fearing the worst – to my delight the problem was cured never to return. On one occasion I had to attend to a Koi with one side of the body distended, I removed a line of scales, punctured the flesh with a scalpel and a rush of air exited the body. The flesh immediately returned to normal, a couple of stitches were applied with a broad-spectrum antibiotic and one week later the Koi was perfect.
Yes, we are totally alone in these matters but simple attempts to effect a cure can sometimes be possible!
VIRAL DISORDERS.
A little information is shown on the ‘Quarantine’ page of this website regarding these problems. However, it is here where I must bow out and give the answer – ‘Sorry, I do not know’. There are specialists far more experienced than myself in these matters than I and so I ask you to seek other information on this subject. In the UK, CEFAS (DEFRA) have a website where their services can be employed for PCR and/or ELISA testing in their laboratories. Check out info@cefastechnology.co.uk
FINALLY, IF YOU ARE IN ANY DOUBT WHATSOEVER ABOUT THE ABOVE TEXTS AND INSTRUCTIONS – CONTACT ME AT infilkoi@googlemail.com BEFORE YOU PROCEED AND I WILL TRY TO ASSIST.
In closing this section of the website, there are many other ‘Koi items’ offered for sale from many Koi outlets up and down the country – some are useful and others are not. Try to obtain full information and advice from local Koi keepers nearby or, if all else fails, drop me an email.
